![]() ![]() ![]() Thankfully, I found a genuine gear-head to help me out. So, the loose plug was definitely an issue. If the rpm dropped back around 6500 the sluggishness took over. Once it hit 7000 rpm it was all smooth again. However, going easy on the throttle, as I normally do, was a different story. This time it accelerated smoothly at full throttle from idle to near redline. Cleaned it off easily and torqued it on properly. The gap was good but for only having about 2 miles on it there was quite a bit of carbon colored stuff already. 035 inches, this is a fair bit more than my. I have since read that the recommended gap is. So I don't think that led to the current problem. I did just as you stated: blew it out, loosened a little, blew it out, and repeated a couple more times to make sure. I read elsewhere on here to be careful about getting the crap out before pulling the plug. ![]() If not, I'll gap it correctly and retry it once more. I'll pull the new one, re-check the gap and if it's good then I'll try another plug. Perhaps the gap is too short which might explain the phantom governor I now experience. I either didn't tighten it enough or got a bad plug. Maybe Lowe's or Home Depot will have something? It was just too hard to gauge the force I was using to install it given the crappy fit of my "custom" socket. My best idea is just to repeat the whole process but not until I get a real socket that will make the job easier than before. ![]() I checked the NGK website and the correct gap is, as Hannda reported. Maybe too far? Not enough? Or perhaps my manual is incorrect?Īny suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help. It was too large out of the box and I closed the gap a bit. But my pea brain tells me the oil/filter has nothing to do with my problem.Ī) The plug is not seated properly? Given the issues with removing it me thinks my makeshift tool may not have been adequate to properly tighten the new plug.ī) The gap is wrong? Maybe my brain farted while checking the gap. I was careful to really blow out the plug area with compressed air a few times as I removed the plug. Made sure the boot was firmly seated on the new plug. I also checked the gap (my manual states 0.6mm-7.0mm). I double checked the box and compared the old to the new to make sure. #1) Removed the tank to change the plug with the same NGK as I removed. Once around the block and back into the garage and straight to the computer. If I left it at about 4000 RPM it ran fine. It starts to really stutter, in every gear, and simply won't do any more. While I was dirty decided to change oil and filter too.Īfter I'm done it's time to check out my handiwork. Was a pain in the *ss but it worked just well enough to remove the plug. A hammer, file and sandpaper did the job to make the plug wrench useable. Had to fashion a useable plug socket from one of those cheap lawn mower stamped steel ones to fit that impossibly small opening. Any carb work is out for me as I consider these one of those mysteries of nature better left alone. So I decided to look elsewhere for any fixable causes. Coincidence? And yes, I now know how far I can go and will remember to reset the odometer. This was shortly after I ran out of gas twice in one week, had to go on reserve both times. The bike started to stumble when rolling on full throttle at higher speeds. I am by no means an experienced mechanic type. Has 11k miles and ran fine until a couple of weeks ago. Had my '97 KLR 250 for a couple of months now. ![]()
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